Italy · city guide
Varenna: the quiet, pastel side of Lake Como
Slow lake mornings, espresso on the steps, and the ferry to everywhere else.
Varenna is where I tell everyone to base themselves on Lake Como, and it's the trip I keep begging people to slow right down for. It's a little pastel village on the eastern shore, quieter than Bellagio and right on the water, so you wake up to the lake every morning and let the days unfold without a packed schedule. The ferry across to Bellagio and Menaggio leaves from the village, so you sleep somewhere calm and still have the whole lake at your feet. Here's exactly how I'd spend a few slow days.
- The quiet, pastel base on Como's eastern shore
- Ferry across to Bellagio & Menaggio from the village
- Walkable to the Walk of Lovers, Villa Monastero & Vezio
Best things to do
Walk the Walk of Lovers at sunset
A little waterfront path on stilts that hugs the lake into the village. Go as the light turns gold and the day crowds thin out; it was my favourite moment of the whole trip.
Climb to Castello di Vezio
A short uphill walk above the village to a small castle with an eerie ghost statue and some of the best lake views I saw all trip. Go on a clear day and wear comfortable shoes.
Wander Villa Monastero's gardens
A long botanical garden running right along the water, with citrus trees, statues and benches made for doing nothing. The lakeside stroll everyone films.
Take the boat tour across the lake
Hop the ferry from Varenna over to Bellagio and Menaggio and back; the whole middle of Como opens up from the water. Buy a day pass and village-hop at your own pace.
Where to stay
Getting there & around
The easiest way in is the train: Varenna-Esino sits on the Milan to Tirano line, so it's about an hour straight from Milano Centrale, and the station is a short downhill walk to the water. Once you're here you barely need a plan. The village is small and walkable, and the ferry from the pier hops you across to Bellagio and Menaggio in 15 to 20 minutes; buy a day pass and village-hop at your own pace. You don't need a car, parking is tight and everything worth doing is on foot or on the boat.
Eat & drink
- Nilus Bar — A tiny spot right on the water for an aperitivo and a spritz as the ferries come in. My pick for sunset.
- Il Cavatappi — A handful of tables down a back lane, proper Lake Como cooking; book ahead because it's small and it fills up.
Day trips
On the map
Book this trip
A few of these earn me a small cut at no extra cost to you — only ever things I'd actually book.
Frequently asked
Why base in Varenna instead of Bellagio or Como town?
Varenna is smaller, quieter and right on the water, which made it my favourite base for slow days. The ferry across to Bellagio and Menaggio leaves from the village, so you sleep somewhere calm and still have the whole lake at your feet.
How many days do I need in Varenna?
Two to three. That's enough for the Walk of Lovers at sunset, the climb to Castello di Vezio, Villa Monastero and a ferry day across to Bellagio and Menaggio without ever feeling rushed.